Eating in Puglia

I have to go to Puglia at least once in a year. Wonderful seaside and wonderful food. Puglia offers a rich tapestry of culinary traditions rooted in its agricultural abundance and coastal proximity. When I got aware that my daughter was coming for some days to Conversano, I immediately took this opportunity to travel to see her. I spent four days in Polignano a Mare and three days in Brindisi, exploring local dishes and seafood offerings.

Polignano a Mare

Polignano a Mare is a tourist place, I would not like to be there in the peak season. But it is so touristic because it is so beautiful. I was directed by the owner of my B&B to a fish bar near the beach., more a fiish monger than a restaurant.This unassuming spot provided a selection of raw seafood, including red shrimps, langoustines, and various oysters, some locally cultivated in Bari. you could choose the fish to prepare the tartare. Notably, I tried baby calamari served whole, which was a new and enjoyable experience.

Later, we dined at Ristorante dal Monaco, starting with steamed tuna and a dish of fava beans with chicory. The main course featured roasted fish—sarago and orata—grilled to a crisp skin and tender flesh, showcasing the quality of local seafood preparation.

Brindisi

In Brindisi, I revisited FAO 37, a small fish restaurant named after the FAO fishing zone code for the Mediterranean Sea. On my first visit, I had a raw seafood platter consisting of a red shrimp, a langoustine, an oyster, and a generous portion of mussels. On my second visit, I tried a swordfish tartare with almond cream and raisins, followed by pasta with crab. The tartare had a balanced sweetness, and the crab pasta was rich, with the crab flavor infused into the dish. The meal, accompanied by two glasses of local Chardonnay, totaled 47 euros, reflecting good value for the quality offered.

Another noteworthy establishment is Antica Osteria la Sciabica, a restaurant with a 30-year tradition and recognized by Slow Food Puglia. I went there twice. The first time I had a Brindisi signature dish. A whole monkfish cooked with the tomatosauce and with pasta made like little tubes. One of the tastiest tomato sauces I have ever eaten, the fish being blended perfectly with the tomatoes. The chef cam out of the kitchen to explain the dish

The second time I came with my friends Pier Paolo and Letizia. We shared a purée of fava beans with bietola, which stood out for its flavor. The pasta with calamari was well-prepared, and the main course featured a large roasted fish from the dentice family, sufficient for three people. This restaurant also marked the place where I first tried raw mussels four years ago. This time our food was accompanied by a bottle of “Verdeca” a fruity local grape that went very w ell with the roasted fish.

What I like especially about la Sciabica: They treet you like a guest not only as a customer.