Natural…..
When we consider the debate between natural and artificial, we often find that the line isn’t as clear-cut as it seems. After all, many artificial interventions have undeniably improved our lives. My natural eyes, for instance, aren’t as effective as they are with artificial glasses, and no one would argue that life wouldn’t be more difficult without the countless artificial (human-made) products that enhance it.
Yet, when it comes to food, the conversation shifts. “Natural” is often regarded as a mark of quality, while “artificial” has become a pejorative term. And honestly, that’s not hard to understand. The food industry has done some pretty terrible things to products—overprocessing, oversweetening, oversalting. Much of what you find on supermarket shelves is little more than junk.
But we shouldn’t forget that in some cases, intervention—artificial or otherwise—is essential. Take pasta, for example. Great artisanal pasta isn’t “natural” in the rawest sense. It’s a product of human craftsmanship, perfected over centuries.
This brings me to wine, and more specifically, natural wine.
The Journey to Understand Natural Wine
My partner and I have made a serious effort to appreciate and understand natural wine. And let me say upfront: it’s a good thing that natural wines exist. They challenge norms and offer an alternative. For instance, the transparency you find on natural wine labels, like the one from Marco Merli’s production, is a fantastic step forward. Every wine label should contain this kind of detailed information—and probably more.
That said, wine is deeply subjective. Some people love Sauvignon Blanc; others can’t stand it. Personally, I didn’t enjoy any of the five wines we sampled at Marco Merli’s winery. And this has been true for nearly all the natural wines I’ve tasted (with a few exceptions). They often remind me of the homemade wine my first father-in-law made, which we affectionately nicknamed “Aspretto di Caputi.” It had an overly tart flavor, and after reflecting on why natural wines often don’t appeal to me, I landed on this: they frequently taste as if someone added a splash of rhubarb juice after fermentation.
The Misunderstanding of “Natural” as Purity
One common misconception about natural wine is the idea that any intervention strips away the typicity or authenticity of the wine. But let’s not forget: fermentation itself is a chemical process—we’re already in the realm of chemistry! In fact, I often find that the lack of intervention in natural wines can result in a dirty, unrefined flavor, that “rhubarb juice” note I mentioned earlier, which can obscure the unique characteristics of the grape.
This raises the question: Are interventions in winemaking inherently bad? Sometimes, yes. Excessive sulfur dioxide (SO₂) can be harmful, but there are strict rules governing its use. Is adjusting acidity or controlling fermentation temperatures a bad thing? I don’t think so. What’s wrong with filtration? These are tools that help winemakers produce clean, enjoyable wines.
What Matters Most in Wine for me?
For me, the debate isn’t really about “natural” versus “conventional.” It’s about two simple things:
- Do I enjoy the product?
- Is the production as sustainable as possible? (That means minimizing pesticide use, reducing energy and water consumption, and maximizing positive social impact.)
From this perspective, I welcome natural wines as an enrichment of the wine world, not as a replacement for other production methods.The wine industry needs to be more transparent and more sustainable. But no reason demonize interventions just because they’re “artificial.” After all, great winemaking is an art—whether it’s done by letting nature run wild or by using science and craftsmanship to achieve a specific style.
I’ll continue to drink what I like, whether it’s “natural”, “conventional,” or somewhere in between.
A very positive aspect of natural wines….
…is their effect on the wine market. In the U.S., for example, sales of natural wines have risen even while overall wine consumption has been declining since 2015(KQED)(Corkframes.com). Furthermore naatural wines are engaging younger consumers with a future on the market. In Italy they might even have a positive effect on prizes, increasing them to a level, where the work of the wine produce ris paid.
