Not famous enough and trying too hard

Can you imagine, in italy The season for Hotspring is summer! no one from Asia is able to understand this. So we went to hotsprings in winter.
The other day, we were in the only restaurant still open for “off-season” in San filippo. We chose a wine from the wine shelf and then the host told us the price is 40 euro. which is pretty high by italian standard. because italians still consider wine a daily drink, an agricultural product, so most quality italian wines are still far far away from being expensive, except a few famous brands.
And this 40 euro wine was actually perfect in all dimensions, but we really can not say i like it more than the bottle we had the night before, which is also made of sangiovese and produced nearby but only cost half of the price.

why? maybe because it is trying too hard.
in Chinese art there is a concept of “leave a free space by purpose(留白)”, which is considered essential for all the artworks. And this wine we are talking about is too full in all dimensions, leaves no free space, and ends up lack of character except for being loud.

I understand, wineries want to stand out in those wine challenges and competitions, blind tastings and ratings, where the judges will taste a hundred wines in one day, and compare wines closely, dimension by dimension. The easy way to stand out is to be the loudest. high in acidity, high in tannin, have high concentration in primary, secondary and tertiary flavors , better be full bodied because it is more likeable and seems better when people are comparing a group of wines… especially for wineries not famous enough, who really need some medals some prizes some good ratings for marketing.

in fact, There are still many wineries in italiy not famous but stay classy, not trading their own charactors for medals, i really think they deserve to be celebrated much more. there is another wine from the region as i criticized above,also made of sangiovese, even more concentrated in flavor, but thinner in body and more refrained, i like it very much, but it is also not famous and not known by most wine drinkers.

semi dry beef goes very well with this concentrated and dry type of sangiovese
pasta in san filippo
antipasto in san filippo


有一天我们在san filippo唯一一家还开着的餐馆,点了一瓶40欧的酒。意大利人一向把葡萄酒当成普通食物,所以本地产的酒就算品质再好,除非是特别出名的,40欧就算是很高了。一喝,确实还是挺优质的,方方面面都很优秀,但是跟昨天一款同地区出产同样是桑娇维塞葡萄做的,要价23欧的酒比起来,我真的不能说我更喜欢今天这款,虽然今天这款按各种指标来看,确实更优秀。
进一步的问题是,为什么好的brunello就会有松弛感呢? 认真想了想,结论是,因为brunello 本身的风格就比较收敛,而且不会每个维度上都做得这么满,某些维度上稍微松一点点,松弛感就出来了。

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